Evil Academy

Full Version: Magic or mythic? Bone broth is at the center of a brewing cultural divide
You're currently viewing a stripped down version of our content. View the full version with proper formatting.
this topic seems to divide 'MURICANS

At the Saturday farmers market in the college town of Bellingham, Wash., customers are lining up for the latest innovation at chef Gabriel Claycamp’s bone broth cart. Equipped with an espresso machine, workers at Cauldron Broths are steaming a latte-like soup drink they call Froth Broth. Soup-baristas on a recent weekend offered a $4 special infused with the flavors of tom kha gai, and recommended sparking the unseasoned $3 broth-latte with condiments such as a tiny spoonful of sea salt.

If the idea makes (non-chicken-scented) steam come out of your ears, you’re on one side of the bone broth debate. If it sounds as good as Claycamp’s regular customers say, you’re on the other.

The trend-topping drink, loved by celebrities, athletes and many humbler figures in search of better health, is generally made by simmering bones for hours in water with added vinegar. Acolytes say the resulting collagen-rich liquid reduces inflammation, cures leaky guts, nourishes the immune system, strengthens bones and promotes radiant hair and skin. Detractors think it’s a ridiculous rip-off. Even Claycamp, whose past projects include a Seattle cooking school and a well- respected butcher shop, has friends who ask whether he is just peddling a fancypants rebranding of plain old soup stock.


Our backlash nation has a well-established excitement-to-ennui curve for every food trend, including $4 cupcakes and coconut water. Bone broth, though, attracts an unusually — it has to be said — visceral divide. Mention it online and every word of praise for it as a magical elixir will be matched by a scoff that it’s “hipster” hogwash.

“It makes sense that people are angry about it,” said Melissa Abbott, vice president of culinary insights at the Hartman Group, a company that researches food- industry trends.


Gabriel Claycamp of Cauldron Broths speaks passionately about his bone broths with customers at his cart during the Bellingham Farmers Market on a recent Saturday. (Meryl Schenker/For The Washington Post)
To understand why, it helps to look back — on some level, way back.

First, the people who say bone broth is nothing new are quite right. Boiled bones have been around as long as humans have cooked with fire. Its current form is documented at least to the 1500s, said cultural historian Libby O’Connell.

“In Europe, in the late Middle Ages, it was known as what was called ‘restaurer.’ It was a restorative broth” — and the source of the word “restaurant,” said O’Connell, author of the culinary history “The American Plate.”


“People were very fond, especially in the wintertime, of buying what we would call bone broth. . . . It was nutritionally dense, made essentially from leftover bones boiled until all the goodness and nourishment came out.” Cooled, it became gelatinous. That calves-foot jelly of Victorian novels, the invalid’s cure-all? “It’s cold broth.” And don’t forget beef tea.

What we might call the first brodo bar — and what’s popularly considered the first restaurant — came to France in 1765 when a certain Monsieur Boulanger opened shop near the Louvre (which was then a palace, not a museum). Boulanger sold the clear broth “as a cure for nervous exhaustion, people suffering from general fatigue, and people who needed, essentially, a quick meal that you could drink on the run,” O’Connell said.

Sound familiar?

In more recent years, bone broth was a low-key health food favorite, generally differentiated from soup stock by its ratio of meat to bone, or possibly the use of aromatics, or maybe the addition of vinegar. (There’s no formal consensus.) Some serious fans were followers of the Weston A. Price Foundation, a Washington-based nonprofit that promotes “nutrient-dense foods.” At that point, drinking bone broth was about as trendy and controversial as sprinkling nutritional yeast on your popcorn.


(Stacy Zarin Goldberg/For The Washington Post)
The gelatinous surge
Then, a few years ago, came mass popularity. It seemed sudden from the outside, but for June Jo Lee, a food ethnographer who works with companies such as Google Food, it was a logical puzzle piece in the newly mainstream appeal of health and wellness. Fat was back, umami was in, sugar was out. Interest surged in “functional foods,” to which “culinary medicinals” such as turmeric and ginger could be added in.


“By 2013, everybody just got it,” Lee said. “It was a thing, it was real, it was part of our cultural norm.”

Bone broth also, of course, was the poster child of the Paleo food movement, the most popular diet in the United States for the past few years, noted Sophie Egan, a program director at the Culinary Institute of America and author of “Devoured,” an exploration of the modern American diet.

[Make the recipe: Golden Bone Broth]

For Paleo followers, “meat and animal products really are the foods you can luxuriate in, and I think that’s why you see this proselytizing about bone broth’s divine powers,” she said. “ ‘I can’t have coffee or tea or dairy or grains, but I guess instead of going to Starbucks for my morning coffee, I can stop by the brodo counter to sip my morning broth.’ ”

That brodo counter was what brought the broth to full fad status, courtesy of chef Marco Canora of New York’s Hearth restaurant, who claimed the drink had completely revitalized his health. In 2014, Canora opened Brodo, a takeout window selling broth by the cup.


Similar broth bars souped up the scene in other urban centers and college enclaves, along with bone broth home delivery services and carts or freezer-packs. People bought into it, even at up to $10 a cup. Except for the ones who didn’t.

https://www.washingtonpost.com/lifestyle...2f45397470
why do MERICANS have to turn every traditional thing into a fad or trend?

bone broth has been around for a long time.

ramen is made out of bone broth.

MERICANS don't have true religion or beliefs so they replace it with stuff like FAD DIETS which function pretty much like religions

the no-gluten shit is a cult
(11-08-2017 09:42 PM)EVILYOSHIDA Wrote: [ -> ]why do MERICANS have to turn every traditional thing into a fad or trend?

bone broth has been around for a long time.

ramen is made out of bone broth.

MERICANS don't have true religion or beliefs so they replace it with stuff like FAD DIETS which function pretty much like religions

the no-gluten shit is a cult

It is the search for the primal elixir. People are desperate for power. Animal power, caveman power, primal power, paleo power, you name it, it is all the same. They think that by downing some magic potion they will acquire or regain these hidden or lost powers, the lack of which keep them in their oh so boring, normal human state.

Someone pointed out to me that Stevenson's Dr. Jekyll and Mr Hyde was about just that. I always dismissed it as a cheap horror story.
[Image: download.png]
it's not a left right divide.

maybe a libertard and libtard divide
(11-08-2017 09:42 PM)EVILYOSHIDA Wrote: [ -> ]why do MERICANS have to turn every traditional thing into a fad or trend?

bone broth has been around for a long time.

ramen is made out of bone broth.

MERICANS don't have true religion or beliefs so they replace it with stuff like FAD DIETS which function pretty much like religions

the no-gluten shit is a cult

health and fitness are the new religion now, could be worse tbh.
(11-08-2017 11:17 PM)Pierrot Lunaire Wrote: [ -> ]Someone pointed out to me that Stevenson's Dr. Jekyll and Mr Hyde was about just that. I always dismissed it as a cheap horror story.


I've always interpreted the story to be about substance abuse and addiction. Which is along the same lines as what you are saying. The drug starts out as exciting and makes you feel somehow better than you normally are, so you keep taking it. If not controlled, eventually it takes you over and destroys you.
cool thread and pierrot lunaire shows up!
I'll just leave this here:



Reference URL's